Rebirth of the grape
Columnist Danny Hewitt welcomes the spring wine season with a round-up of hot trends, plus the Under-$20 Wine Review returns
Everything you need to know about Pinot Noir
By Danny Hewitt | Jul 30, 2010In my first wine education class, the instructor poured us each a glass of a light-coloured red wine. “Smell this wine,” he said, “and tell me what you get.” Without thinking, I blurted “Barnyard!” The instructor agreed and I discovered the world’s greatest grape.
Ever since Miles, the protagonist in Sideways, professed his love for Pinot Noir, sales have climbed. In the wine world, Pinot Noir is known as the “Heartbreak Grape” and the “Holy Grail” of wine.
Of all well-known grapes, it is the most fickle, needing consistently warm days and cool evenings. Unexpected cold or heat—or 100 other factors—have grape growers holding their breath every growing season. Improperly made, it can taste thin or, as above, smell like a barnyard. But when you have your first experience with a proper Pinot Noir, the realization of how good it can be hits home. It really is a unique wine-drinking experience.
Younger Pinot Noirs can evoke red berries like strawberries and cherries, along with tomatoes and plums. This type of profile can extend as far as jammy fruit in the case of Pinot Noir from hot climes like Australia.
Older and well made Pinot Noir wines develop amazing earthy dimensions such as mushrooms, game, figs, truffles and violets. But the greatest attribute is a sublime and harmonious combination of fruit, alcohol, acidity and tannin.
Before you buy a case, take heed. Of all the wines I have drunk, Pinot Noir has disappointed me the most often. If you read this column regularly, you know that I’m always looking for the best wines for under $20. Finding great Pinot Noir in this price range is nearly impossible. The world still looks to France (specifically, the Côte-d’Or region, known as Burgundy) for the best Pinot Noir. Small, family owned plots of grapes have grown there for over 1,000 years in an ideal soil and climate. These greatest Burgundian Pinot Noirs can cost thousands of dollars. The gap between the high and low quality of this wine is higher than any other major grape.
Fortunately, there are some good values coming out of other regions of France, plus New Zealand, Oregon, California and Ontario (Niagara). For less expensive Pinot Noir from the Burgundy region, look on the label for Hautes-Côtes de Nuits, Côte Chalonnaise, Rully, Givry or Mercury. You’ll pay from $20 to $60 for a decent bottle. Pair it with poultry, lamb or pork and you’ll fall in love.
The biggest challenge in Halifax is just finding Burgundy Pinot Noir. The NSLC carries a pitiful selection—it’s more profitable to carry fruit bombs from Australia and, more recently, Argentina. Good Pinot Noir from France needs to be hand-sold and explained. French labels are notoriously baffling for the average consumer. Try Port of Wines on Doyle Street. The staff know their stuff and how to explain it. The city’s private stores all offer a selection of French Pinot too.
For the best values in Pinot in the New World, I drink New Zealand Pinot Noir, which most stores carry. While they do not have all the nuances of great French Pinots, they are a fraction of the price and a great introduction. The cooler climate California Pinot Noirs (from regions like Carneros and Central Coast) are very good. If you get the chance, try a vintage from Oregon as well. Surprisingly, Ontario produces some nice Pinot Noir and there are two or three available at stores in the city.
When trying good Pinot Noir, put aside your preconceptions of how nice wine tastes. Unlike Cabernet, Shiraz or Zinfandel, Pinot Noir is all about subtlety and elegance. For some it is an acquired taste, others take one trip to France and are instantly smitten. It’s also a versatile food wine. Experiment, enjoy with friends and toast the good life.
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Catena Zapata Alamos Chardonnay 2009
Argentina, Port of Wines, $14.99
Chardonnay and Argentina are not usually two words you find together, but as Argentina continues to grow and expand its wine industry, locals have discovered some great growing areas. Toasty vanilla and pineapple notes, hints of fresh melon. Lovely balance of fruity acidity and oak. The finish is a bit butterier than I prefer but overall this wine is very nice. A New World Chardonnay striving for Old World balance and almost succeeding. Pair with poached fish in butter or alfredo pasta. 88/100
Riscasoli Campo Ceni
Toscano 2008
Italy, Port of Wines, $16.99
Bright red cherries and a touch of licorice come through on the nose. The palate is ripe cherries followed by a nice grippy bite and dark earthy finish. Good structure here for the price. Buy a couple extra to lay down to be rewarded with a very nice wine in two years. A classic Tuscan food wine that needs a rack of lamb to make it sing. 87/100
80–84: A great sipper, good value.
85–89: Won’t last long, great value.
90–94: Brag to your friends and buy a case—fantastic.
95–100: A classic, run to the store, extremely rare.
Next time you are researching Pinot Noir, you might try heading down to Bear River Vineyards to sample our 2008 “Black Fly” Pinot Noir….under $20 a bottle and winner of a Bronze Medal in this year’s New York Finger Lakes International Wine Competition. We just finished harvesting our 2010 crop of Pinot Noir today…October 2.